That sentiment is a boon for the businessman and restaurateur Francesco Panella, who is practically the Italian ambassador to
Brooklyn. Mr. Panella, 44, and his brother, Lorenzo, run Antica Pesa, the Williamsburg branch of the Rome establishment that has been in their family since 1922. In addition to funneling pasta into the mouths of hungry patrons on both sides of the Atlantic, Mr. Panella has made it his mission to take Brooklyn — the concept, the aesthetic, the food — to Europe.

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